Kakadu v Kakadon't

To see Kakadu  like the TV documentaries,  you need to part with your $$$. We were lucky enough to see Kakadu from the ground, water and air. We experienced the culture, the food, the arts, the wildlife and the serenity.

We were lucky we did not have our vehicle broken into or our van stolen.

 All non NT residents pay $25 each for a permit-at some camping spots you pay up to $10 pp, or in some cases no $$, because the honesty box has been broken into.

We drove the 4wd tracks to escape the commercialism, sometimes we stayed in the Cooinda Resort camping grounds-the facilities were not a high standard.

The sunset cruise at Yellow River was good value at $88pp, we had our crocodile fix, saw many varieties of birds, enjoyed the wetlands.

Our Kakadu flight provided us with 1hr of scenery-such a vast area with extremes in the landscape from rocky formations, uranium mining, to wetlands and river systems. We saw communities of 2 families and the township of Jaribu –a purposely built mining town, built for a pop of 3500, but only 1500 people live there as only one mining permit was provided.

I loved the wetlands, the vastness of the mangroves and waterways, unfortunately we did not see water buffalo-this is the only animal we have not seen here in Kakadu. From the air the wetland grasses resembled the hide of a shorthaired animal, as the wind caught the colourful weaving patterns.

We travelled to East Alligator Crossing at the far eastern end of Kakadu NP. Here we camped for 3 nights-paying NP fees-$10pp per night. The sites are set in the bush and have camp fireplaces. Rubbish bins, solar showers and flush toilets are provided.

The rangers provide slideshows, guided walks and cultural activities. Sue and I attended a weaving workshop where we learned how to split the pandanas grass-preparing it for dyeing, how to pound the bulbs and cook the grass in the dye, then how to make bracelets.

The local people run cultural boat cruises on the east alligator river. This cruise complemented our yellow river cruise-. The boats cruise along the river stopping at plants and trees growing on the riverbanks explaining their uses from spears to medicinal. We stopped on Arnhem  land for a spear throwing demonstration-Neville threw his spear from one side of the river to the other, nearly missing the sleeping crocodile.

our next adventure... Superman will relate...

Katherine

The tourist brochures differ on the population of this service town, it is between 5,500-11,000.

We stayed at Shady Lane – 8 minutes from Katherine on the road to the Katherine Gorge.

I am pleased we did not stay in Katherine, especially on a Thursday-it is extremely busy-benefit day! Dogs roam the township of Katherine and I did not feel safe. There is only 1 supermarket and it is packed, we queued for 35 minutes to buy our groceries. You have to wait until 2pm to buy alcohol. ID is required to buy port and it is limited to 1 bottle each.

We did the ‘touristy’ trip – 3 gorge boat cruise at $91 each – what a rip off! It was only worth the child’s price of $46.00. 3 hours on a flat bottom boat cruising along looking at cliffs. The highlite for me was spotting crocodiles.

On Friday 22^nd we head to Kakadu – many call it Kakadon’t, but we are here now, so feel we should have a look. Once again another cost - $25 each to enter the National Park and this permit is valid for 14 days. Plus there is some paid and some free camping along the way, plus many paid touristy things to do like flights, boat cruises etc.

Watch out for our next report… in 2-3 weeks…

The Savannah Way from the lost city to St Vidgins

Driving the SW, from Lorella Springs, our first stop was the Southern Lost City – huge coloums of sandstone created over millions of years-reminded me of Cabbadochia? in Turkey.

We stopped over night at Butterfly Springs-the only freshwater/crocodile safe place to swim along the Savannah Way-the water was freezing.

The following day saw us traverse huge river crossings, with many crocodile signs warning us not to get out of our vehicle.

 Unfortunately and not uncommon along the Savannah Way-the information signs had weathered-and we do not know why or what the ruins are at St Vidgins. At the back is a huge billabong filled with barramundi and crocodiles. We did not park close to the billabong which was fill of beautiful water lillies. I would loved to have taken some closer shots, but too scared. In the evening the wild pigs came to fossick at the water’s edge.

The sunset was spectacular-more so as there had been burn-offs in the area during the week.

Where's Julia (at Lorella Springs)

Superman writes... about Lorella Springs

We had a great time at the springs, making new friends.

 One day a helicopter, owned by MS Contracting from Roper Bar, landed and we were lucky enough to have a sit in it.

Earl the rooster was our biggest fan. Every day he bought his harem to see us.

Aidyn and Isaac were our biggest fans.

At the end of the day we went to happy hour-and after one drink, I fell asleep.

The Savannah Way - Cape Crawford to Mataranka

The Savannah Highway is another one of those ‘tourist’ highways that runs from Cairns, Queensland to Broome, WA. Stretching 3699kms, passes through 15 National Parks and 4 World Heritage areas. Some of the Savannah Way is only suitable for 4Wd vehicles.

Due to wet weather and road closures we picked up the Savannah Way at Cape Crawford. We were hoping to start at Normanton.

Entering the SW from Cape Crawford-a sign on the gate read “prescribed aerial burnoff; 5-8^th June-do not continue if prone to asthmatic conditions etc.  We dropped our tyre pressure to 35psi, and off we set. Well this is definitely a 4wd track and you need a camper trailer or off road van to drive.

Incredibly slow and heavy going, the track is just that a track-no seal/bitumen. Gravel or bluestone as the Ozzies call it. You cannot get up a speed as the river crossings and dips appear out of no- where very quickly. Occassionly they are signposted in a small red sign saying’caution’. We travelled 45 kms to our first camp site-it took us about 1 hour. A lovely small site at Batten Creek-we shared it with John and Joy-whom we had met at Cape Crawford. There is no cell phone coverage and this couple had a Tvan with a HF radio.

We decided to go to Lorella Spring, described as a wilderness camp on a 1 million acre cattle station, privately owned- having been recommended by a fellow camper. The track to this is only 30kms off the main track-but this was worse, it took us about 50 minutes to drive.

Where have we been?....

Despite Telstra telling us we have the country covered-not so-had we known we would be out of range for several weeks-we would have let you know, however we are back in cilvilization for a few days in Katherine. On Friday we head to Kakadu National Park for 2 weeks, then to Darwin. There is no cell phone coverage in the park.

And so where did we go..... well..... this is where....

Lorella Springs is a cattle station set on one million acres with over 100kms of coastline, waterways, gorges, chasams, wetlands, swamps – a 4wd paradise.

It is located between Roper Bar and Borrolloa, 29 kms off the Savannah Way.

The camping area is set on a huge articulated watered grassy area with trees, privacy, shared camp fire or your own. There is plenty of firewood, and water. No powered sites – you provide your own. 

At $15 pp per night and $3lit for diesel-it is not cheap-but Lorella Springs is one of those places you go to and think twice about leaving.

A natural hot  thermal river separates the camping areas-this is devine to relax in-a constant 25 degrees.

(see where's Julia for more photos of Lorella Springs)

There are many pools, fishing spots to explore-all accessible by 4wd only. 4wd training schools come out here, along with motorbike tours, tourists in their Britz 4wd, people like ourselves, keen men with their tinnies and camper trailers who go out for weeks at a time to catch that old timer –‘barramundi’. When you leave the campsite you ‘sign out’, indicating your intended route, just in case you don’t return, a search party can find you. One young couple were late back-they had been away camping for 4 days-they were rescued-they had become stuck in the mud-the mud on their orange tracks and Toyota landcrusier told all!

At night you can hear the ‘barking owl’ and dingoes. Colourful dragonflies live in the branches.

The campsite is staffed by paid people and volunteers. Volunteers receive nights in lieu. You can view more at www.lorellasprings.com

When we first arrived, we thought 3 nights would see us here- 12 nights later we left.

We drove the tracks exploring the pools, rock formations, billabongs, walked kms in the piercing hot sun,

 went fishing at Rosies Creek-an over nighter-catching Queenies, Mangrove Jack,

 enjoyed a pot luck dinner and watched the State of Origin game-2^nd game. We contributed- Murray, Sue and Jeff prepared a whole stuffed Queenie-Fijian style, wraped in banana leaves and cooked in the embers.

Murray smoked one side of a Queenie in his new smoker and Sue made a fish curry.

We made some new friends, Superman and Muz and Julia all had a great time.

Superman falls in love - again...

Superman writes

I have fallen head over heels in love with a nurse – what am I going to do, I want to stay in Mt Isa, but alas I would have to live underground for the rest of my life….

Today Murray,  Brenda, Julia and I visited the underground hospital and museum. Built in 1942, following the bombing of Darwin, Mt Isa community felt it too may become a target for the Japanese.

The hospital was built by volunteers into a side of a mountain with beds, operating theatre, power and all the equipment and supplies needed to care for 100 patients.

Today you can visit the museum and have a tour underground.

Definitely worth a visit and a complimentary cup of tea or coffee.